Select the proper tool. The issue is the blade moves in multiple directions, including side-to-side. Cut through the stuck bolt and the toilet will come right up. The bolt will have a flat top that you can see on the bottom of the flush tank. I recommend not using a cheater bar with a ratchet (particularly cheap ones) as that may break the ratchet. I thought of trying bolt cutters. Wear padded mechanics gloves to reduce skinned knuckles and the number of quarters put in the swearing jar. The way to do it here is completely. Instead of attacking the problem from below the toilet bowl, you could work from the top. The reason being that they typically will apply a significant pressure against the porcelain base of the stool and crack or break it. Remove the nuts from the floor bolts with an adjustable wrench and set them aside to reuse them later. The majority of bolts seize due to corrosion in the form of rust. In this example I used a special female square drive socket that fits the square on the pipe plug. I could envision a type of blade made with a short length of hack saw blade spot welded to the end. Super cheap solution if you have nothing else handy, though it did take quite a few minutes to cut all the way through. (continued from above) On the other hand the standard hack saw blades are really designed to cut with force applied in one direction only. How to teach a one year old to stop throwing food once he's done eating? Why does "nslookup -type=mx YAHOO.COMYAHOO.COMOO.COM" return a valid mail exchanger? On stuck rusted nuts and bolts that can't be cut of destroyed, some type of liquid thread loosener will be a huge help. If they're not brass, they definitely rust. The flange is cast iron, the pipe appears to be cast iron. There are a few key steps that you must take to ensure this process goes as smoothly as possible. Fixing a rusted out ring on a PVC or ABS closet flange is an easy repair as long as the floor is not badly rotted. @Mowzer - It will get into tight places. If the tension suddenly becomes soft or rubbery, you are either breaking the bolt or stripping the threads. If the nut is smaller due to corrosion, you may get a better fit with next smaller Metric or SAE size. You may need to pry out pieces of the old flange with a chisel and hammer. If you can get the nut to move a little bit, spray some PB Blaster or Liquid wrench on there, tap it lightly with a hammer (repeat a few times) and then remove the nut with a wrench. I've snapped quite a few bolts without any extra leverage. This sounds contradictory, but it is not. Most mechanics learn the rhyme "Righty-Tighty, Lefty-Loosey" on day one, but you'd be surprised at how many still get their spatial directions confused when working in a reversed or upside down position. We may earn commission if you buy from a link. The tapping is to vibrate the bolt/nut so the Liquid Wrench can work into the rusted nut. Let it soak into the area around the nut for a minute or two. @Kris I doubt it. Use a steady, even pressure paying close attention to the feel or each turn. Hold the toilet upright over the flange and guide the bolts through the holes in the base as you lower it in place. Typically closet bolts are brass so I'm a little surprised to read that they are rusted. That is the reason I made specific comment in the answer above. Let it soak in Liquid Wrench for as long as you can. Then cut vertically through the nut. How can I cut off the rusted closet bolts holding my toilet? Some bolts are brass plated or coated to look like brass. Be sure to use a snug fitting, proper sized socket. It works pretty well. Where did the "Computational Chemistry Comparison and Benchmark DataBase" found its scaling factors for vibrational specra? The first rule is to invoke the patience of a Bonsai artist. Maybe a Dremel tool instead of bolt cutters? To remove the toilet, you need to remove the nuts on the tee bolts. Remove the Toilet Bowl Pry off the bolt caps at the base of the toilet using a screwdriver. Something like that would work perfectly for this situation. Once you drill through, the head will split from the bolt. I usually use a "mini-hack" saw: Cutting the bolts might not be the best solution. For example, exhaust manifold studs are notorious for corroding the shanks thin as twigs and just as easy to break. See the article 'How To Remove a Toilet' for instructions on taking up a toilet. The other issue is given the large and clumsy size it could damage the porcelain. Very handy tool to have around - I have knocked loose lug nuts with that and my foot that an impact wrench could not budge. If possible, use the impact on the nut side and hold the bolt with a wrench. Remove the toilet flange by unscrewing it from the floor. What authority does the Vice President have to mobilize the National Guard? When you remove a toilet and discover the steel ring on a PVC or, ABS closet flange has rusted out, your easy job of resetting a toilet has just gotten more difficult. You have to seal the toilet back down to the floor and cut the flange bolts off and hook up the toilet line again. When I added new bolts to the toilets I replaced, the bolts came longer than they needed to be (helps with installation) but there's a bare spot for cutting to proper length. No, There Isn't a '5G Chip' in the COVID Vaccine, Gear of the Year: The Best Products We Tested, Tiny Nuclear Reactors Can Save American Energy, The Best Smart TVs for Picture-Perfect Clarity, This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. How do I cleanly cut threaded stainless .24" rods? It helps to have two people to lift the toilet straight up and off the bolts. Also, it would probably behoove you to take a wire brush and clean up the exposed threads as best you can before removal. Jerry :Use tool that drills a small hole into bolt then it goes into the hole and removes the broken bolt. Stack Exchange network consists of 176 Q&A communities including Stack Overflow, the largest, most trusted online community for developers to learn, share their knowledge, and build their careers. You may have to use a saw to cut the nuts off, which is ok, because you are going to put in new toilet bolts and nuts. I tried applying a penetrant, gave it a few hours to let it sit, but when I went to attempt to remove the nut I found that I was just spinning the anchor bolt. This works beautifully for anything where you can apply an open flame without damaging the surrounding area. However they will take awhile. Remove the bolts with the help of a wrench, then with the use of a multi-head screwdriver to loosen the screws and take off the toilet flange. What does "Drive Friendly -- The Texas Way" mean? Set two new bolts in the flange, place a wax ring on the bottom of the new toilet and set it in place. Usually, you would use a screwdriver and a wrench. I had to use PB Blaster, Vise Grips to hold the bolt and vise grips to finally remove the nuts. I've actually heard that before. I made darn sure the replacement hardware was brass and the threads were lubricated for future maintenance. Is the bolt worth saving? Freeing the snapped bolt requires that you attempt to break the bond created by the rust. You want low-violence, low-impact methods. It works quite well. Many factory bolts have thread locker applied. Heat those suckers up and then immediately put a wrench on them and start turning. Moisture can lead to the degradation of the nuts and screws. Be sure to wear both gloves and safety glasses, move anything flammable away from the work area, and cover trim, drywall, anything nailed down that you do not want damaged. Either way it should come off. An alternative if you do not have a Dremel tool but do have an oscillating tool is to use a metal cutting blade in that. Much worse. Open-end wrenches are most likely to round off the flats of a stuck nut. Heat it up as hot as you can get it without melting the bolt. Then position the holes at its base to fit into the bolts standing upright from the flange. In order to keep the toilet firm on the floor without rocking back and forth the bolts should be moderately tight. Heat, carefully applied to one side of the nut, can expand it sufficiently to break the rust bond or melt locking compound. This extra leverage should allow you to 'persuade' the nut to move, or if it's really on there, the bolt will snap. Also hack saw blades are generally designed for slow operation. How we test gear. If the bond cannot be broken, you will need to remove the fastener while not damaging the part beyond repair. You could also easily break the flange with all that torque. 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Dremel with a box wrench is fine an angle not perpendicular but say on a degree! Slightly from left you will cut the nut is bonded to the end swap the colours...

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